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Tuesday, July 19, 2011

Tuesday Travel: Hawaii..The Big Island

I was listening to Southern Cross by Crosby, Stills and Nash and decided for this travel piece, I am going to move from the Caribbean to the Pacific.  In fact, to the Big Island of Hawaii.  It's where I live and most definitely one of my favorite places.

First off, for everyone that slept through US history, Hawaii is the 50th state in the United States of America.  I mention that because I had two Americans ask me the other day if we had our own government and military force.  Wow.

Hawaii is an island archipelago situated smack in the middle of the pacific.  It is actually one of the most remote island chains in the world.  It is considered part of Polynesia (many nations) which include islands such as Tahiti, Samoa, Tonga, New Zealand and several others.  There are 8 main islands.  The Big Island is named Hawaii, but to avoid confusion, I'll refer to it as the Big Island.  Thanks to volcanic activity, it is still growing.  It moves up in elevation quickly as well as wide changes in climate and weather.  If you don't like the weather where you are, drive 10 minutes and it can be completely different.

The Big Island was settled around 1500 years ago by people who journeyed by canoe up from the Marquesas Islands and possibly Tahiti.  It is an extremely rich culture with pride in heritage as fierce as I have ever seen.  Captain Cook, an English Explorer, came to the islands in 1778 and again in 1779 as the first Europeans to visit the isles.  He was killed in Kealakekua Bay just south of Kailua Kona on the west coast where I live.  A monument stands in his memory.  This opened an influx of immigrants with the end result being annexation into the United States in 1959.  Sometime I will write a piece on my opinion of western influence in Hawaii and it's history as it is controversial.  I happen to agree with the people of Hawaii that they were mistreated.  President Clinton signed an apology to that end.

So where to start.  That's kind of tough when 11 of the 13 climate zones on the earth exist here.  The island is only missing the Arctic and Saharan.  Because of this, the diversity of activities is staggering.  You can get from the beach to the snow in a couple of hours.  I'll give a whirlwind tour and just hit some of my favorites circling the island.  There are four colors of sandy beaches found here:  white, gray, green and black.  My favorite is a black sand beach found on the north shore in Waipio valley.  It is a major 4WD road going down into it and would be a great place to Thelma and Louise off the top.  (I don't recommend that).  In the valley, it feels like you have entered the Garden of Eden.  High walls of lush tropical vegetation and waterfalls surround a valley populated by wild horses and a few hippies.  The sand is powder black and any swimsuit you wear will become embedded with it.  One thing of note on Hawaiian beaches, none of them are private so places like The Four Seasons have to provide public access to some beautiful, uncrowded beaches.

Activities in the water are boundless.  There is great diving and snorkeling accessible from shore, (my favorite site is at Captain Cook monument).  On shore entries, remember that lava rock is not forgiving and there are sea urchins around so watch your step.  My most favorite thing is to frequently see wild dolphins off the shore.  I have swam with them several times and it is magical.  There are boat tours that will take you out to swim with them.  Just don't harass them, float quietly and they will come to you.  The winter brings humpback whale watching and it is a thrill to watch those big boys breach.  Add sportfishing, parasailing, atlantis submarine and canoe paddling and you are set.

Moving around the south of the island is South Point, the southern most point in the USA.  Great place to cliff jump and another serious 4WD into the green sand beach there..so worth it.  It also looks like you may have entered the mid-west, with fields of grass.  Next, head around the island to Volcano National Park.  Kilauea is very active and it is the flow from there through lava tubes that causes the beautiful show as it enters the ocean.  Guided hikes, a boat along the shore and helicopters are the best way to view the volcanos and lava.  As you drive up the east coast or Hilo side, it is very wet and very beautiful.  There are waterfalls like Rainbow Falls to hike to and Japanese flower gardens to explore.

To complete the island circle, climb up in elevation to Waimea which feels like you went from Oregon to Ireland.  Parker Ranch, the second largest cattle ranch in the US, is located there.  The road up to the top Mauna Kea, and the space observatories leaves from there.  Mauna Kea is the most massive volcano in the world and taller than Everest from ocean floor to top.  That's where the snow zone is.  Head back down the west side of the island to the Kohala Coast and I've been told by my friend born in Africa that the landscape resembles Africa.  The poshest resorts are located there and many great golf courses as well.

To complete your time here, it is an injustice to yourself if you don't take some time and learn about Hawaiian culture.  It is enchanting and I have a great deal of respect for it.  I seriously have only scratched the surface of this island in paradise and I am still exploring and finding new things to do and see.  I will say that Hawaii is a bit more expensive than many places in the Caribbean, but it is very secure if you don't wander on private property and easily accessible.  I haven't been off the island in a year, except Honolulu, and am not bored yet.  So come visit me in one of my favorite places to travel where I just happen to live.  Later mates! 

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